Singapore is a melting pot of cuisines from around the
world, and many Singaporeans are obsessive gourmands who love to makan
("eat" in Malay). You will find quality Chinese, Malay, Indian,
Japanese, Thai, Italian, French, American and other food in this city-state.
Eating habits run the gamut, but most foods are eaten by
fork and spoon: push and cut with the fork in the left hand, and eat with the
spoon in the right. Noodles and Chinese dishes typically come with chopsticks,
while Malay and Indian food can be eaten by hand, but nobody will blink an eye
if you ask for a fork and spoon instead. If eating by hand, always use your
right hand to pick your food, as Malays and Indians traditionally use their
left hand to handle dirty things. Take note of the usual traditional Chinese
etiquette when using chopsticks, and most importantly, do not stick your
chopsticks vertically into a bowl of rice. If eating in a group, serving dishes
are always shared, but you'll get your own bowl of rice and soup. It's common
to use your own chopsticks to pick up food from communal plates, but serving
spoons can be provided on request.
Keep an eye out for the Singapore Food Festival [26], held
every year in July. During the last three festivals, all visitors to Singapore
smart enough to ask for them at any tourist information desk received coupons
for free chilli crab, no strings attached!
Local delicacies
Singapore is justly famous for its food, a unique mix of
Malay, Chinese, Indian and Western elements. The following is only a brief
sampler of the most popular dishes.
A plate of chilli crab
Katong laksa, with chilli paste and chopped laksa leaf in a spoon
Satay with peanut sauce, onions and cucumber
Peranakan/Nonya cuisine
Culinary borrowings
Many regional terms and the odd euphemism tend to crop up in
notionally English menus. A few of the more common ones:
assam - tamarind (Malay)
bee hoon -thin rice
noodles garoupa
grouper - a type of fish (Portuguese)
gonggong- a type of conch (Chinese)
hor fun - very wide, flat rice noodles
kangkung -water spinach, an aquatic vegetable (Malay)
kway teow - flat rice noodles
lengkuas - blue ginger (Malay)
mee - thick egg noodles
serai - lemon grass (Malay)
sotong- squid/cuttlefish (Malay)
spare parts- offal such as liver, heart, gizzard
tang hoon - glass vermicelli made from mung bean flour
The most identifiable cuisine in the region is Peranakan or
Nonya cuisine, born from the mixed Malay and Chinese communities of what were
once the British colonies of the Straits Settlements (modern-day Singapore,
Penang and Malacca).
Chilli crab is a whole crab ladled with oodles of sticky,
tangy chilli sauce. It's spicy at first, but the more you eat, the better it
gets. Notoriously difficult to eat, so don't wear a white shirt: just dig in
with your hands and ignore the mess. The seafood restaurants of the East Coast
are famous for this. Be sure to get a side order of fried mantou (small sweet
buns which have been deep fried for a crisp exterior) to mop up the sauce too.
For a less messy but equally tasty alternative, ask for black pepper crab.
Kaya is a jam-like spread made from egg and coconut, an
odd-sounding but tasty combination. Served on toast for breakfast, canonically
accompanied by runny eggs and strong, sweet coffee (kopi). Exists in two
distinctive styles; the greenish Nonya version, coloured with pandan leaf, and
the brownish Hainanese version.
Laksa, in particular the Katong laksa or laksa lemak style,
is probably the best-known Singaporean dish: white noodles in a creamy,
immensely rich coconut-based curry broth, topped with cockles or shrimp. Be
warned that the common style found in hawker centres is very spicy, although
you can ask for less/no chilli to dial down the heat. The Katong style is much
less spicy and is generally found only in Katong itself (see the East Coast page).
Singapore laksa is very different from Penang laksa, which is a spicy, sourish,
clear soup made with a tamarind-infused broth.
Mee siam is rice flour noodles served in a sweet-sour soup
(made from tamarind, dried shrimp and fermented beans), bean curd cubes, and
hard boiled eggs. Though the Chinese, Malays and Indians all have their own
versions, it is the Peranakan version that is most popular with Singaporeans.
You will largely find this at Malay stalls.
Popiah, or spring rolls, come fresh or fried. They consist
of a filling of boiled turnip, fried tofu, pork, shrimp with a slew of
condiments, wrapped in a thin crepe smeared with sweet dark soy sauce and eaten
like a fajita. They are related to the lumpia and runbing of other Chinese
communities in Asia.
Rojak means a mixture of everything in Malay, and there are
two very different types. Chinese rojak is a salad of pineapple, white turnip,
cucumber, tau pok (fried bean curd) with thin tiny slices of bunga kantan
(torch ginger flower buds), tossed in shrimp paste sauce and sugar, then
sprinkled with crushed peanuts. Indian rojak consists of mainly fried fritters
made from flour and various pulses with cucumber and tofu, with sweet &
spicy sauces.
Satay bee hoon is rice vermicelli (bee hoon) served with the
same peanut and chilli sauce used for satay, hence the name. Usually see hum
(cockles), dried squid and pork slices are added.
Ice cream is just as it is in Western countries. However, in
Singapore, there are various local flavours such as durian and red bean which
are not available outside the region and are certainly worth a try. To impress
the locals, try asking for ice cream in roti (bread).
Besides these dishes, the Peranakans are also known for
their kueh or snacks, which are somewhat different from the Malay versions due
to stronger Chinese influences.
Malay cuisine
Nasi lemak with sambal ikan bilis (fried anchovies with
chilli paste), cucumber, chicken curry and an egg
The Malays were Singapore's original inhabitants and despite
now being outnumbered by the Chinese, their distinctive cuisine is popular to
this day. Characterized by heavy use of spices, most Malay dishes are curries,
stews or dips of one kind or another and nasi padang restaurants, offering a
wide variety of these to ladle onto your rice, are very popular.
Mee rebus is a dish of egg noodles with spicy, slightly
sweet gravy, a slice of hard boiled egg and lime.
Mee soto is Malay-style chicken soup, with a clear broth,
shredded chicken breast and egg noodles.
Nasi lemak is the definitive Malay breakfast, consisting at
its simplest of rice cooked in light coconut milk, some ikan bilis (anchovies),
peanuts, a slice of cucumber and a dab of chilli on the side. A larger ikan
kuning (fried fish) or chicken wing are common accompaniments. More often than
not, also combined with a variety of curries and/or sambal (see below).
Otah/Otak is a type of fish cake made of minced fish
(usually mackerel), coconut milk, chilli and various other spices, and grilled
in a banana or coconut leaf, usually served to accompany other dishes like nasi
lemak.
Rendang, occasionally dubbed "dry curry", is meat
stewed for hours on end in a spicy (but rarely fiery) coconut-based curry paste
until almost all water is absorbed. Beef rendang is the most common, although
chicken and mutton are spotted sometimes.
Sambal is the generic term for chilli sauces of many kinds.
Sambal belacan is a common condiment made by mixing chilli with the shrimp
paste belacan, while the popular dish sambal sotong consists of squid (sotong)
cooked in red chilli sauce.
Satay are barbecued skewers of meat, typically chicken,
mutton or beef. What separates satay from your ordinary kebab is the spices
used to season the meat and the slightly spicy peanut-based dipping sauce. The
Satay Club at Lau Pa Sat near Raffles Place is one popular location for this
delicacy.
Malay desserts, especially the sweet pastries and jellies
(kuih or kueh) made largely from coconut and palm sugar (gula melaka), bear a
distinct resemblance to those of Thailand. But in the sweltering tropical heat,
try one of many concoctions made with ice instead:
Bubur cha-cha consists of cubed yam, sweet potato and sago
added into coconut milk soup. This can be served warm or cold.
Chendol is made with green pea noodles, kidney beans, palm
sugar and coconut milk.
Durian is not exactly a dish, but a local fruit with
distinctive odor you can smell a mile away and a sharp thorny husk. Both smell
and taste defy description. If you are game enough you should try it, but be
warned beforehand — you will either love it or hate it. The rich creamy yellow
flesh is often sold in places like Geylang and Bugis and elsewhere conveniently
in pre-packaged packs, for anywhere from $1 for a small fruit all the way up to
$24/kg depending on the season and type of durian. This 'king of fruits' is
also made into ice cream, cakes, sweets, puddings and other decadent desserts.
Note: You're not allowed to carry durians on the MRT and buses and they're
banned from many hotels.
Ice kachang literally means "ice bean" in Malay, a
good clue to the two major ingredients: shaved ice and sweet red beans.
However, more often than not you'll also get gula melaka (palm sugar), grass
jelly, sweet corn, attap palm seeds and anything else on hand thrown in, and
the whole thing is then drizzled with canned evaporated milk or coconut cream
and coloured syrups. The end result tastes very interesting — and refreshing.
Kuih (or kueh) refer to a plethora of steamed or baked
"cakes", mostly made with coconut milk, grated coconut flesh,
glutinous rice or tapioca. They are often very colourful and cut into fanciful
shapes, but despite their wildly varying appearance tend to taste rather
similar.
Pisang goreng is a batter-dipped and deep-fried banana.
Chinese cuisine
Bak kut teh with rice and you tiao fritters
Hainanese chicken rice
Fried hokkien mee
Prawn mee and pork rib soup
Chinese food as eaten in Singapore commonly originates from
southern China, particularly Fujian and Guangdong. While "authentic"
fare is certainly available, especially in fancier restaurants, the daily fare
served in hawker centres has absorbed a number of tropical touches, most
notably the fairly heavy use of chilli and the Malay fermented shrimp paste
belacan as condiments. Noodles can also be served not just in soup, but also
"dry", meaning that your noodles will be served tossed with chilli
and spices in one bowl, and the soup will come in a separate bowl.
Bak chor mee is essentially noodles with minced pork, tossed
in a chilli-based sauce with lard, ikan bilis (fried anchovies), vegetables and
mushrooms. Black vinegar may also be added.
Bak kut teh lit.
"pork bone tea", is a simple-sounding soup of pork ribs simmered for
hours in broth until they're ready to fall off the bone. Singaporeans prefer
the light and peppery Teochew style ("white"), but a few shops offer
the original dark and aromatic Fujian kind ("black"). Bak kut teh is
typically eaten with white rice, mui choy (pickled vegetables) and a pot of
strong Chinese tea, hence the name — the broth itself doesn't contain any tea.
To impress the locals, order some you tiao fritters from a nearby stall and cut
them up into bite-sized chunks to dip into your soup.
Char kway teow is the quintessential Singapore-style fried
noodle dish, consisting of several types of noodles in thick brown sauce with
strips of fishcake, Chinese sausage, a token veggie or two and either cockles
and shrimp. It's cheap ($2-3/serve), filling and has nothing to do with the
dish known as "Singapore fried noodles" elsewhere! (And which
actually doesn't exist in Singapore.)
Chee cheong fun is a favorite breakfast consisting of
lasagna-type rice noodles rolled up and various types of fried meats including
fishballs and fried tofu. The dish is usually topped with a generous amount of
sauce.
Chwee kway is a
breakfast dish consisting of rice cakes topped with chai po (salted fermented
turnips), usually served with some chilli sauce.
Fishball noodles (come in many forms, but the noodle
variety most often seen is mee pok, which are flat egg noodles. The noodles are
tossed in chilli sauce and accompanied by a side bowl of fishballs in soup.
Hainanese chicken rice is steamed ("white") or roasted
("red") chicken flavoured with soy sauce and sesame oil served on a
bed of fragrant rice that has been cooked in chicken broth and flavoured with
ginger and garlic. Often accompanied by chilli sauce made from crushed fresh
chillis, ginger, garlic and thick dark soy sauce as well as some cucumber and a
small bowl of chicken broth.
Hokkien mee is a
style of soupy fried noodles in light, fragrant stock with prawns and other
seafood. Oddly, it bears little resemblance to the Kuala Lumpur dish of the
same name, which uses thick noodles in dark soy, or even the Penang version,
which is served in very spicy soup.
Kway chap is
essentially sheets made of rice flour served in a brown stock, accompanied by a
plate of braised pork and pig organs (tongue, ear and intestines).
Prawn noodles hae mee
in Hokkien) is an dark-brown prawn broth served with egg noodles and a giant
tiger prawn or two on top. Some stalls serve it with boiled pork ribs as well.
The best versions are highly addictive and will leave you slurping up the last
MSG-laden (probably from the shrimp heads) drops.
Steamboat, also known as hot pot, is do-it-yourself soup
Chinese style. You get a pot of broth bubbling on a tabletop burner, pick meat,
fish and veggies to your liking from a menu or buffet table, then cook it to
your liking. When finished, add in noodles or ask for rice to fill you up. This
usually requires a minimum of two people, and the more the merrier.
Tau huay) is probably the most common traditional Chinese
dessert, a bowl of tofu curds in syrup, served either hot or cold. A recent
innovation that has swept the island is a delicious custard-like version which
includes no syrup and is extremely soft despite being solid.
Wonton mee is thin noodles topped with wantan dumplings of
seasoned minced pork. Unlike the soupy Hong Kong version, it is usually served
'dry' in soy sauce and chilli.
Yong tau foo literally means "fermented tofu", but
it's more exciting than it sounds. The diner selects their favorites from a
vast assortment of tofu, fish paste, assorted seafood and vegetables, and they
are then sliced into bite-size pieces, cooked briefly in boiling water and then
served either in broth as soup or "dry" with the broth in a separate
bowl. The dish can be eaten by itself or with any choice of noodles. Essential
accompaniments are spicy chili sauce and sweet sauce for dipping.
Indian cuisine
Roti prata (left) and roti telur (centre) with a side order
of chicken curry
The smallest of the area's big three ethnic groups, the
Indians have had proportionally the smallest impact on the local culinary
scene, but there is no shortage of Indian food even at many hawker centres.
Delicious and authentic Indian food can be had at Little India, including south
Indian typical meals such as dosa (thosai) crepes, idli lentil-rice cakes and
sambar soup, as well as north Indian meals including various curries, naan bread,
tandoori chicken and more. In addition, however, a number of Indian dishes have
been "Singaporeanized" and adopted by the entire population,
including:
Fish head curry is, true to the name, a gigantic curried
fish head cooked whole until it's ready to fall apart. Singapore's Little India
is the place to sample this. Note that there are two distinct styles, the fiery
Indian and the milder Chinese kind.
Nasi briyani is rice cooked in turmeric, giving it an orange
colour. Unlike the Hyderabadi original, it's usually rather bland, although
specialist shops do turn out more flavorful versions. It is usually served with
curry chicken and some Indian crackers.
Roti prata is the local version of paratha, flat bread
tossed in the air like pizza, rapidly cooked in oil, and eaten dipped in curry.
Modern-day variations can incorporate unorthodox ingredients like cheese,
chocolate, sugar and even ice cream, but some canonical versions include roti
kosong (plain), roti telur (with egg) and murtabak (layered with chicken,
mutton or fish). Strict vegetarians beware: unlike Indian roti, roti prata
batter is usually made with eggs.
Murtabak is a variety of Roti Prata where mutton, chicken,
onion and sometimes peas, depending on the stall, are added into a typical
"Prata", and served with a curry of your choice. Most stalls has
chicken and fish curry and they will serve you either of those two randomly
unless specified. Do take note that the curry served are just plain curry
without and meat included. Fish curry is generally the more commonly served and
carries a slight sour taste. A Murtabak is generally much larger than a typical
Roti Kosong and it is recommended that it is shared among at least two person.
Zam Zam located at the Kampong Glam Bugis area is arguably the most famous
restaurant in Singapore serving the murtabak
Putu mayam is a sweet dessert composed of vermicelli-like
noodles topped with shredded coconut and orange sugar.
Hawker centres
Social welfare Singapore style
One thing notably absent from Singaporean hawker centres and
food courts is any form of napkins or tissues. The solution to the mystery is
in Singapore's lack of government welfare: instead, every hawker centre has a
resident invalid or two, who make a living by selling tissues ($1 for a few packets).
These folks believe in self reliance instead of depending on government welfare
funds. Do give them your respectful support.
Typical hawker centre, Bugis
The cheapest and most popular places to eat in Singapore are
hawker centres, essentially former pushcart vendors directed into giant
complexes by government fiat. Prices are low ($2-5 for most dishes), hygiene
standards are high (every stall is required to prominently display a health
certificate grading it from A to D) and the food can be excellent — if you see
a queue, join it! The lack of air-conditioning may seem somewhat unbearable to
foreigners, but a visit to a hawker centre remains a must when in Singapore.
However, be leery of overzealous pushers-cum-salesmen, especially at the Satay
Club in Lau Pa Sat and Newton Food Centre at Newton Circus: the tastiest stalls
don't need high-pressure tactics to find customers. Touting for business is
illegal, and occasionally a reminder of this can result in people backing off a
bit.
To order, first chope (reserve) a table by either parking a
friend by the table or, in the more Singaporean way, dumping a pack of tissue
onto the tabletop. Note the table's number, then place your order at your stall
of choice. Some stalls will deliver to your table, in which case you pay when
you get your food. However, note that some stalls (particularly very popular
ones) have signs stating "self-service", meaning that you're expected
to get your food yourself and you pay on order. Although, if it is quiet and
you are sitting nearby, they will usually deliver anyway. At almost every stall
you can also opt to take away (called "packet" or ta pao (打包) in
Cantonese), in which case employees pack up your order in a plastic box/bag and
even throw in disposable utensils. Once you are finished, look around: if there
are signs asking you to return your tray, take your dishes to the tray return
station (usually clearly marked). This is part of a government initiative that
has been pushed out in recent years encouraging diners to return their own
plates so as to reduce the burden on the cleaners. If there are no signs, you
can leave your dishes on your table, where a cleaner will come by to pick them
up.
Every district in Singapore has its own hawker centres and
prices decrease as you move out into the boondocks. For tourists, centrally
located Newton Circus (Newton MRT), Gluttons Bay and Lau Pa Sat (near the
River), are the most popular options — but this does not make them the cheapest
or the tastiest, and the demanding gourmand would do well to head to Chinatown
or the heartlands instead. Many of the best food stalls are located in
residential districts away from the tourist trail and do not advertise in the
media, so the best way to find them is to ask locals for their recommendations.
A good example is the Old Airport Road Food Centre in a residential area near
Dakota MRT station (about a $10-$15 taxi ride from town) which rarely has many
tourists and is a true Hawker Centre for locals. And if you miss western food,
Botak Jones [27] in several hawker centres offers reasonably authentic and
generously sized American-restaurant style meals at hawker prices.
Coffee shops
Coffee, see, and tea, oh!
Coffee and tea in hawker centres and kopitiam goes for under
a dollar a cup, a steep discount on Starbucks prices, but you'll need to learn
the lingo to get what you want. If you order just kopi (the Malay word for
"coffee") or teh (Hokkien for "tea") in Singapore, it will
definitely be served with a heaped spoonful of sugar, and more often than not
with a squirt of sweet condensed milk. Kopi-C or teh-C substitutes unsweetened
evaporated milk, while kopi-O or teh-O makes sure it's served with no milk. To
get rid of the sugar, you need to ask for it kosong ("plain"), but if
you want a plain black cup of joe, you need to ask for kopi-O kosong! If you
want your drink cold, just add a peng to the end of the drink name, eg.
kopi-O-peng, teh-peng, teh-C-peng, Milo-peng etc. and it will be served with
ice. The drinks sold at such places are generally around $1.
Despite the name, coffee shops or kopitiam sell much more
than coffee — they are effectively mini-hawker centres with perhaps only half a
dozen stalls (one of which will, however, sell coffee and other drinks). The
Singaporean equivalent of pubs, this is where folks come for the canonical
Singaporean breakfast of kopi (strong, sugary coffee), some kaya (egg-coconut
jam) toast and runny eggs, and this is also where they come to down a beer or
two and chat away in the evenings. English proficiency can somtimes be limited,
but most stall owners know enough to communicate the basics, and even if they
don't, nearby locals will usually help you out if you ask. Many coffee shops
offer tze char (煮炒)
for dinner, meaning a menu of local dishes, mostly Chinese-style seafood,
served at your table at mid-range prices.
The usual international coffee chains such as Starbucks and
the Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf can be found in many shopping malls where an
iced coffee or tea can set you back $5 and up. More discerning coffee drinkers
may consider visiting the local cafes that serve coffee brewed with greater
skill and care than these international coffee chains.
Food courts
Retro style at the Food Republic food court, Orchard
Found in the basement or top floor of nearly every shopping
mall, food courts are the gentrified, air-conditioned version of hawker
centres. The variety of food on offer is almost identical, but prices are on
average $1-3 higher than prices in hawker centres and coffee shops (depending
on the area, it is slightly more expensive in tourist intensive areas) and the
quality of food is good but not necessary value for money.
Fast food
International fast food chains like McDonald's, Carl's Jr.,
Burger King, KFC, MOS Burger, Dairy Queen, Orange Julius, Subway etc are
commonly found in various shopping malls. Prices range from $2 for a basic
burger and $5 upwards for a set meal. Such restaurants are self-service and
clearing your table after your meal is strongly recommended. In addition to the
usual suspects, look out for these uniquely Singaporean brands:
Restaurants
Kee-ping up with the Lims
Ever wonder why every other Chinese hawker stall and
restaurant in Singapore has a name that ends in Kee? The answer is simple: the
character kee (记)
is Chinese for "brand" or "mark", and is used much like the
trademark symbol in the West. A name like Yan Kee thus means "run by the
Yan family", and should not be taken as a political statement!
Singapore offers a wide variety of full-service restaurants
as well, catering to every taste and budget.
As the majority of Singapore's population is ethnic Chinese,
there is an abundance of Chinese restaurants in Singapore, mainly serving
southern Chinese (mostly Hokkien, Teochew or Cantonese) cuisines, though with
the large number of expatriates and foreign workers from China these days,
cuisine originating from Shanghai and further north is also not hard to find.
As with Chinese restaurants anywhere, food is eaten with chopsticks and served
with Chinese tea. While Chinese restaurant food is certainly closer to
authentic Chinese fare than hawker food is, it too has not managed to escape
local influences and you can find many dishes little seen in China. Depending
on where you go and what you order, prices can vary greatly. In ordinary
restaurants, prices usually start from $20-30 per person, while in top end
restaurants in five-star hotels, prices can go as high as more than $300 per
person if you order delicacies such as abalone, suckling pig and lobster.
Being a maritime city, one common specialty is seafood
restaurants, offering Chinese-influenced Singaporean classics like chilli
crabs. These are much more fun to go to in a group, but be careful what you
order: gourmet items like Sri Lankan giant crab or shark's fin can easily push
your bill up to hundreds of dollars. Menus typically say "Market
price", and if you ask they'll quote you the price per 100 g, but a big
crab can easily top 2 kilos. The best-known seafood spots are clustered on the
East Coast, but for ambience the riverside restaurants at Boat Quay and Clarke
Quay can't be beat.
Singapore also has its share of good Western restaurants,
with British and American influenced food being a clear favourite among locals.
Most of the more affordable chains are concentrated around Orchard Road and
prices start from around $10-20 per person for the main course. French,
Italian, Japanese and Korean food is also readily available, though prices tend
to be on the expensive side, while Thai and Indonesian restaurants tend to be
more affordable.
One British import much beloved by Singaporeans is high tea.
In the classical form, as served up by finer hotels across the island, this is
a light afternoon meal consisting of tea and a wide array of British-style
savoury snacks and sweet pastries like finger sandwiches and scones. However,
the term is increasingly used for afternoon buffets of any kind, and Chinese
dim sum and various Singaporean dishes are common additions. Prices vary, but
you'll usually be looking at $20-30 per head. Note that many restaurants only
serve high tea on weekends, and hours may be very limited: the famous spread at
the Raffles Hotel's Tiffin Room, for example, is only available between
3:30PM-5PM.
Singaporeans are big on buffets, especially international
buffets offering a wide variety of dishes including Western, Chinese and
Japanese as well as some local dishes at a fixed price. Popular chains include
Sakura [36], Pariss [37], Vienna [38] and Todai [39].
Most hotels also offer lunch and dinner buffets. Champagne
brunches on Sundays are particularly popular, but you can expect to pay over
$100 per head and popular spots, like Mezza9 at the Hyatt on Orchard, will
require reservations.
Unlike most other shops, restaurants in Singapore usually do
not include the additional charges (7% GST and 10% service charge) in their
list prices. Price lists displayed outside restaurants and menus typically
indicate this fact with a statement such as "Prices do not include GST and
service charge", or indicate their prices with "++", e.g.,
$19.90++.
Fine Dining
While Singapore has been previously described as a place
with excellent casual dining but a lack of fine dining options, the opening of
the two casinos has led to several of the world's top chefs opening branches of
their restaurant at the integrated resorts. Celebrity restaurants that have set
up shop at Marina Bay Sands include Santi, Waku Ghin and Guy Savoy . Prices are
generally what you would expect for eating at a fine dining restaurant in the
West.
Supper Clubs
Pop up dining options or supper clubs are normally dinner
events hosted by local chefs. While a relatively new concept in Singapore, it
is gaining popularity with more and more local chefs opening up their homes to
guests. Authentic food and dining in the company of new friends is a new trend
that is catching up in Singapore. BonAppetour is a great place to discover such
dining options.
Dietary restrictions
Singapore is an easy place to eat for almost everybody. Many
Indians and a few Chinese Buddhists are strictly vegetarian, so Indian stalls
may have a number of veggie options and some hawker centres will have a Chinese
vegetarian stall or two, often serving up amazing meat imitations made from
gluten. Chinese vegetarian food traditionally does not use eggs or dairy
products and is thus almost always vegan; Indian vegetarian food, however,
often employs cheese and other milk products. Be on your guard in ordinary
Chinese restaurants though, as even dishes that appear vegetarian on the menu
may contain seafood products such as oyster sauce or salted fish — check with
the waiter if in doubt. Some restaurants can be found that use "no garlic,
no onions".
Muslims should look out for halal certificates issued by
MUIS, the Islamic Religious Council of Singapore. This is found at practically
every Malay stall and many Indian Muslim operations too, but more rarely on
outlets run by the Chinese, few of whom are Muslims. That said, the popular
Banquet [40] chain of food courts is entirely halal and an excellent choice for
safely sampling halal Chinese food. Many, if not all, of the Western fast-food
chains in Singapore use halal meat: look for a certificate around the ordering
area, or ask a manager if in doubt. A few restaurants skimp on the formal
certification and simply put up "no pork, no lard" signs; it's your
call if this is good enough for you.
Jews, on the other hand, will have a harder time as kosher
food is nearly unknown in Singapore. Nevertheless, kosher food is still
available near Singapore's two synagogues at Oxley Rise and Waterloo Street in
the Central Business District; check with the Jewish Welfare Board [41] for
details.
Celiac disease is relatively unheard of in Singapore, so
don't expect to find information on menus about whether dishes contain gluten
or not. A few exceptions to this include Cedele and Barracks @ House
Drink
Clarke Quay by night
Singapore's nightlife has both increased in vibrancy and
variety over the years. Some clubs have 24 hr licenses and few places close
before 3AM. Any artist touring Asia are pretty much guaranteed to stop in
Singapore, with superclub Zouk in particular regularly clocking high on lists
of the world's best nightclubs. Singapore's nightlife is largely concentrated
along the three Quays — Boat, Clarke and Robertson — of the Riverside, with the
clubs of Sentosa and nearby St James Power Station giving party animals even
more reason to dance the night away. Gay bars are mostly found around
Chinatown. Drinking age is 18, and while this is surprisingly loosely enforced,
some clubs have higher age limits.
Friday is generally the biggest night of the week for going
out, with Saturday a close second. Sunday is gay night in many bars and clubs,
while Wednesday or Thursday is ladies' night, often meaning not just free
entrance but free drinks for women. Most clubs are closed on Monday and
Tuesday, while bars generally stay open but tend to be very quiet.
For a night out Singapore style, gather a group of friends
and head for the nearest karaoke box — major chains include K-Box [44] and
Party World. Room rental ranges from $30/hour and up. Beware that the
non-chain, glitzy (or dodgy) looking, neon-covered KTV lounges may charge much
higher rates and the short-skirted hostesses may offer more services than just
pouring your drinks. In Singapore, the pronunciation of karaoke follows the
Japanese "karah-oh-kay" instead of the English
"carry-oh-key".
Alcohol
RedDot Brewhouse Premium Craft Beers
The original Singapore Sling at the Raffles
Alcohol is widely available but very expensive due to
Singapore's heavy sin taxes. You can bring in up to one litre of liquor and two
litres of wine and beer if you arrive from countries other than Malaysia.
Changi Airport has a good range of duty free spirits at reasonable prices, but
cheap wine is non-existent, with bottles starting well over S$20. Careful
shopping at major supermarkets will also throw up common basic Australian wine
labels for under $20.
Alcohol is haram (forbidden) to Muslims, and most Muslim
Singaporeans duly avoid it. While most non-Muslim Singaporeans are not
puritanical and enjoy a drink every now and then, do not expect to find the
binge-drinking culture that you will find in most Western countries. Unlike in
most Western countries, public drunkenness in socially frowned upon in
Singapore, and misbehaving yourself under the influence of alcohol will
certainly not gain you any respect from Singaporean friends. Do not allow any
confrontations to escalate into fights, as the police will be called in, and
you will face jail time and possibly caning.
Prices when eating out vary. You can enjoy a large bottle of
beer of your choice at a coffee shop or hawker centre for less than $6 (and the
local colour comes thrown in for free). On the other hand, drinks in any bar,
club or fancy restaurant remain extortionate, with a basic drink clocking in at
$10-15 while fancy cocktails would usually be in the $15-25 range. On the
upside, happy hours and two-for-one promotions are common, and the entry price
for clubs usually includes several drink tickets. Almost all restaurants in
Singapore allow bringing your own (BYO) wine and cheaper restaurants without a
wine menu usually don't even charge corkage, although in these places you'll
need to bring your own bottle opener and glasses. Fancier places charge $20-50,
although many offer free corkage days on Monday or Tuesday.
Tourists flock to the Long Bar in the Raffles Hotel to
sample the original Singapore Sling, a sickly sweet pink mix of pineapple
juice, gin and more, but locals (almost) never touch the stuff. The tipple of
choice in Singapore is the local beer, Tiger, a rather ordinary lager, but
there's been a recent microbrewery trend with Singapore's very own RedDot
Brewhouse (Dempsey & Boat Quay), Archipelago, Brewerkz (Riverside Point,
Singapore Indoor Stadium, Orchard Parade Hotel, and Sentosa Boardwalk),
Paulaner Brauhaus (Millenia Walk) and Pump Room (Clarke Quay) all offering
interesting alternatives.
There are also many online alcohol stores that offer great
value and convenience with doorstep delivery such as Cellarbration Singapore,
Alcohol Delivery, Winelah and Cornerstonewines for you to shop from if you are
looking for an affordable nightcap or as a gift for your host in Singapore.
Tobacco
Tobacco is heavily taxed, and you are not allowed to bring
more than one opened pack (not carton, but a single pack!) of cigarettes into
the country. This is particularly strictly enforced on the land borders with
Malaysia. Many public places including hawker centres have restrictions on
smoking, and it is prohibited in public transport as well. There is a total ban
on smoking in all air-conditioned places (including pubs and discos), and
strict limitations on where you can smoke outside as well (e.g., bus stops,
parks, playgrounds and all except the designated sections of hawker centres are
off limits). The designated zone should be marked with a yellow outline, and
may have a sign reading "smoking zone".
Prostitution
Prostitution is tolerated in six designated districts, most
notably Geylang, which — not coincidentally — also offers some of the cheapest
lodging and best food in the city. The industry maintains a low profile (no
go-go bars here) and is not a tourist attraction by any stretch of the word.
Legally practising commercial sex workers are required to register with the
authorities and attend special clinics for regular sexually transmitted disease
screening. However, please be prudent and practice safe sex--although most sex
workers will insist on it anyway.
Orchard Towers, on Orchard Road, has been famously
summarized as "four floors of whores" and, despite occasional
crackdowns by the authorities, continues to live up to its name. Beware that
the prostitutes working here are usually not registered, so the risk of theft
and STDs is significantly higher. Some transgender women work at this
establishment because the State does not allow them to obtain a license for sex
work. Because they are considered illegal workers, they are subjected to
constant raids, harassment, intimidation, imprisonment and other forms of
degrading treatment and criminalization. They also face entrapment where police
officers pretend to be customers
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